When something’s not right, where do you start?

Your outfit doesn’t look right, but you can’t figure out why?…

This was a question that one of my Instagram subscribers asked in our latest style surgery and it’s an excellent one. So if you have ever put on an outfit and looked in the mirror and thought that something just felt off, then here is where to start:

1. Stop Looking at Individual Pieces

One of the biggest mistakes people make is focusing on whether they like each item separately.

Instead you need to step back and look at the outfit as a whole. The problem is not usually the individual pieces, it’s just that they don’t work together. So go through the following checks to work out where the issue lies.

2. Check the Proportions

More often than not, proportions are the real culprit.

For example:

• An oversized jumper with wide-leg trousers can overwhelm your frame.
• A skinny jean with a tight top all looks too ‘neat’ fitting.

Try changing just one item so that you have better balance within your outfit – if you want to really simplify things then keep the volume in one area of your body either the top or the bottom. You can read my last blog which covered this in more detail.

So often if you swap the oversized knit for something more fitted, then the wide leg trousers work, or replace skinny trousers with a straighter leg silhouette. You might be surprised by how much difference one adjustment makes.

And never underestimate how much difference a roll of a sleeve or a tuck of top can make to your outfit’s proportions.

3. The long and short of it

Getting the length right is key – and not just the length of one element but the combination of lengths on the various items you are wearing together.

Quite frequently when I am with a client all it takes is turning up the hem of the trouser so it finishes at the right point on the leg.

Or showing them the difference between the length of one jacket compared with another. You can often just fold up the hem of the jacket and look in the mirror to see how it impacts the overall look so you can get a sense of what works best for you. Because it isn’t universal and it will entirely depend on your individual proportions.

4. Consider the colour balance

Where and how you use colour in your outfit makes a difference:

• Use the colour sandwich theory to help create a harmonious look: this is where your footwear and top/jacket act as the pieces of bread and are in similar colours (they don’t need to match) while the ‘filling’, your trousers/jeans/skirt etc is in a different colour.
• Think about using 2/3 colours within the outfit to simplify things as often if there are too many different colour elements, your outfit will just look chaotic.
• While dressing tonally can make for a chic look, an outfit made entirely of similar shades can sometimes lack definition. Adding one contrasting element can be all you need. Or make sure there are different textures within the outfit.

5. Are your shoes/accessories ruining the look?

Shoes change the personality of an outfit more than almost anything else.

The same jeans and white shirt can look:

• relaxed with trainers
• elegant with loafers
• polished with ankle boots
• evening-appropriate with heels

If your outfit feels wrong, try changing your footwear before changing everything else.

Similarly, don’t neglect your accessories: so if you have a really casual outfit with a light pair of jeans and a white tee and you add a smart, structured black leather bag when there are no other darker or smarter elements of your outfit, that will stand out like a sore thumb and throw the entire look. It won’t feel like it ‘belongs’.

6. Too much or too little?

I often talk to my clients about elements of their outfits ‘fighting’ and by this I mean that one thing is jarring with another. If everything is competing for attention the outfit starts to feel a bit overwhelming. So for example a printed dress may well compete with a textured jacket – instead swap in a plain jacket with the patterned dress or choose a plain dress and keep the textured jacket.

Consider your necklines – are they in competition? Often a very detailed top doesn’t work well with a jacket layered over the top. Instead you need simpler, quieter pieces to layer underneath.

On the other hand if nothing stands out, your outfit can feel a little flat. So are you lacking a hero piece or some details? This is where accessories can be the game changer to lift the look – a necklace or a belt. Or maybe you just need a little contrast in colour or possibly even in texture?

Have a hero piece and let the rest of the outfit quietly support it!

7. Check Your Third Piece

Stylists often talk about the “third piece.”

That’s the item that finishes an outfit – whether that is a blazer, a cardigan or even a casual jacket – and without it an outfit can feel a bit unfinished.

Of course, this doesn’t mean every outfit needs a jacket, but adding one extra layer often gives your look more intention and polish. And when it is too hot for that third piece make sure your accessories are in place to do the job instead!

Remember styling is about tweaking, not starting over. Small decisions often make the biggest difference. So next time you look in the mirror and thing something isn’t right, don’t assume the whole outfit has failed. Go through the 7 steps and identify where the issue lies. Often you will find that one thoughtful change is all it takes to transform your outfit from “almost” to “absolutely right.”

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